The Porsche 911 Turbo

In 1974, production of the now-classic Porsche 911 began. In America it was named the 930, although it was firmly the Porsche Turbo 911 here in Europe. One of its most recognisabe feature is the wideness of its wheel arches, allowing for wide tires to be fitted. Its spoiler is also quite striking, going by the name “whale tail” in early versions and later on “tea tray”.

1974-911

Soon, the 930 would gain a solid reputation for its accurate levels of acceleration although it could be difficult to handle. The first versions of this model had just a three litre engine, managing 256 BHP. However in 1976 a sports car version of the 911 Turbo was released, named the 934, rapidly becoming a favourite in Le Mans and many other races thanks to its superior handling and power. The models produced in 1989 were the only ones with five speed gearboxes however.

 

At the beginning of the 90s, Porsche released a Turbo version of its 964 series and in the first few years it had a 3.3 litre engine which was similar to that used in the 930 – providing 320 PS in total. Then came the Carrera 2 and 4 which had a 3.6 litre engine and 360 PS in just the rear wheels – unfortunately, it was eventually replaced by the Porsche 993 Turbo in 1995.

 

This Porsche Turbo 993 was revolutionary in a number of ways, although mostly because it was the first of the standard Porsche cars to feature a twin exhaust turbocharger. It did also have as permanent all wheel drive, although it was possible to remove this feature.

 

In ’97, Porsche released a limited run of the Porsche 993 Turbo S in just two hundred units – and to acclaim as the car had a higher performance rate than its predecessor. It also had a few extra features, including modifications to the actual body of the car as well as an extra 24 PS above the normal Turbo 400. Even now, the 993 Turbo is a steep price thanks to its proven reliability, power and because it is the last of the air-cooled Turbo 911s.

 

Later in the year 2000 the 966 Turbo was released – quite simply a Turbo version of the 966. It came with a 3.6 litre engine, four wheel drive as standard, and twin turbocharged inter-cooled, resulting in an impressive 415 BHP –allowing for 0-60 in just under four seconds. Two years later it had an upgrade and was renamed the X50 or Turbo S, making the power up to 444 BHP and with air vents in the rear bumpers and front of the vehicle.

997-GT3

The 997 GT3 Porsche came out in 2006 with tons of aerodynamic features but with the same 3.6 litre engine as the 996 Turbo. It actually had more power though, reaching an impressive 480 PS and managing 0-62mph in 3.2 seconds with its Tiptronic Transmission. It’s also been considered much more driver-friendly, which is one of the biggest appeals of Porsche cars as it is.

How To Tell When You Need New Parts

The Porsche is one of the most durable motors around. However, it is sometimes inevitable that you’re going to need replacement porsche parts due to damage or just general wear and tear of your Porsche.

Fortunately, we’ve put together a brief guide on how to tell when you need replacement parts and the best places to get them.

The most replaced part of many Porsche’s is definitely the wheels. People tend to overwork them so they do not last as long as they should do. The best way to avoid this is to keep the car cleaned and serviced every year.  The steering axle is also vulnerable to wearing down for the same reason. If you hear grinding and squeaking coming from the axle, especially while turning, that is a sure sign that either the wheels or the axle is in need of attention.

porsche parts

Porsche engines are built to last, but a very old engine will eventually need servicing. Independent Porsche garages are everywhere nowadays and most will do you a solid service for a decent price. Be sure to go to a specialist Porsche garage to guarantee the best service.

Keeping your Porsche in a garage or under a rain cover will dramatically increase the lifespan of many parts. Keeping in undercover will protect it from weathering and also protect it from falling branches and rocks etc. But if your car does become subject to accidental damage, for example scratched paintwork or a chipped windscreen, replacement windscreen are easy to find, most models have exactly the same windscreen size and, again, a specialist Porsche mechanic will be happy to do this for you.

How To Restore Your Porsche to it’s Former Glory

Do you own a classic Porsche, perhaps a 911, 928 or 356 that you once swanked everywhere you went, but is now rusting on your backyard? Do you know you could restore it to its former glory with just a few simple moves? The first step is to determine what quality of restoration you want and who is going to do the work for you. You can do your own restoration or you can hire a company to do it. Obviously, the latter option would be best. You can restore the machine to daily driving conditions or just for display purposes.

porsche restoration

Should you choose to take on this task yourself, it is essential to document the entire restoration process. Keep all the receipts, and a meticulous description of what you do to the car. This will help you stay on course, and will boost the value of your Porsche should you decide to sell it after restoration. Keep in mind some parts may be difficult to find and expensive depending on your model. You should factor this into your restoration budget. With that in mind, here are some of the most important Porsche restoration tips, learned the hard way over time:

Disassembling: Prepare a project notebook. Note down what works and what does not. Also, note what parts were difficult to remove so that you will dress them with anti-seeze during reassembly. Label and bag all components and hardware, then catalog all the bags. It can’t hurt to take plenty of photos too. Wrap the under dash wires and the exposed underbody using aluminum foil before taping.

The paint job: Quality paintwork will reflect the vigor and glory of your restored machine. Dryfit everything before you begin the task. Mask underbody parts using aluminum foil when undercoating and/or painting. Use a spray gun for best results. Use a metallic paint for a classic look, but cover with a clear coat.

Assembling: Use all the proper tools, and observe safety precautions. Hold sheetmetal repairs in place with duck tape during tact welding. Use two parts epoxy plumber putty to repair small parts that cannot be welded. During lead work, have a shinny and well-tinned surface, and do not spread the lead past this tinned surface. When assembling new hardware, use the parts manual for plating and sizing. Use duct tape to protect painted areas during hood and door installation. By all means get a pair of extra hands, and have a book to refer to the specific details of you model.